It's been more than three years since Hooters closed on the prominent corner of Fifth Street and Mill Avenue in Tempe. This montha new sports bar and nightlife destination has finally taken over the space.
Varsity Tavern is the Dallas-based Reign Group's second project to open in this building. Rodeo Ranch opened Aug. 24 and Chubby's, a barbecue restaurant, is slated to open after the new year. Reign also plans a rooftop bar forthe third floor of the building.
With Varsity Tavern the team looks to combine a sports bar and nightlife destination under one roof. To achieve the goal, the companyhas recruited two powerhouse Arizona chefs to craft acomfort food menu with Texas roadhouse inspiration.
The James Beard Award winner
The Varsity Tavernmenu was largely inspired by chef Robert McGrath, who joins the team as operating consultant. McGrath is best known as a pioneer of Southwestern cuisine and the founding chef of Roaring Fork in Scottsdale.
In 2001, he won the James Beard Award for Best Chef in America: Southwestand was thehost of "Check Please! Arizona" on Arizona PBS.
McGrath says taking the consulting job as was "serendipitous."
His daughter was working at Rodeo Ranch. When the bar's owners found out her dad was one of the most famous chefs in the state, they asked if she would ask him to help. McGrath initially agreed to come out of retirement to consult only on the company's barbecue concept,"butthen the project sort of grew, from my perspective and my involvement," McGrath says.
Now, he has had a hand in shaping the menu into a sports bar standard combined with what McGrath calls "some of those old Texas housewife recipes."
Dishes like tamale pie, a Texas classic, fall squarely into McGrath's wheelhouse but heis adamant that it's been a collaboration with executive chef Albert Hernandez.
"If anything at this point Iwould say I'm more of a culinary mentor than anything else," McGrath says."I'm certainly not active in the cooking. I'm having a good time, that's for sure. It's something fun, something different for me.
"But no, there's not going to be another consulting job after this or another restaurant after this."
The Tempe favorite
Hernandez had been executive chef at Monti's La Casa Vieja, an iconic Tempe restaurant that closed after 60 years in business in 2014. Over 15 years, Hernandez worked his way through the ranks as a host, busser, food runner, bartender and server before eventually getting his shot to work in the kitchen.
He says he's excited to return to his old stomping grounds.
"I've loved the feel of the Tempe area, you know?" he says.
Monti's had long been a destination for comfort food like steaks and spaghetti and meatballs, and Hernandez hopes Varsity Tavern will fill that niche.
Heishappy to workwith McGrath, though he admits he didn't immediately recognize the celebrity chef.
"The greatest thing about it was I knew the name Robert McGrath but the guy is so humble, he never said anything," Hernandez recalls."I finally Googled him because it bothered me and I was like, 'You're the guy from 'Check, Please!' "
The menu
Together the duo has created a menu that offers Texas and Arizona favorites as well as sports bar standards. Dishes include:
- Pot Roast Sliders topped with grilled onions, shredded carrots, American cheese and "atomic sauce."
- The Sloppiest Sloppy Joe served on an onion roll with American cheese.
- Tamale Pie made with spiced picadillo beef, tomato, roasted corn and cheddar cheese.
- Funnel Cakes.
Brunch,servedSaturdays through Mondays, brings additional options such as Tejas poutine (friestopped with gravy, cheese curds and vinegar) and bananas foster French toast.
Beverage options run the gamut from Bloody Marys at brunch to wine, co*cktails and craft beer. A happy hour menu will be available along with a selection of craft co*cktails such as a spicy margarita and frozen blueberry mojito.
Specialty and premium bottle service will be available.
Discrimination complaint at Texas location
Reign Group also owns the original Varsity Tavern location in Texas. The bar and restaurant, which is in Fort Worth, was accused of racial discrimination lastMarch.
A Texas man said a friend was denied entry to the bar because he was wearing Jordan sneakers. The friend, who is black, was allowed to enter after switching shoes with a white friend, who was allowed to enter while wearing the Jordan shoes.
The Tempe location will have a dress code, too. According to the management, patrons should "dress to impress." A more specificdress code will be posted outside the restaurant at a later date.
Varsity Tavern
Where:501 S. Mill Ave., Tempe.
Details:480-410-6977,VarsityTavern.com.
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